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KI, TI
(Cordyline fruticosa)
(fka C. terminalis)

The ti plant, a member of the lily family, was a Polynesian introduction to the islands. It is widely dispersed from sea level up to above the 3,000-foot elevation. It is a simple plant with very few branches, growing three to 10 feet high. Broad, smooth leaves overlap each other at the base and as the lower leaves turn yellow, they drop from the plant. From the center of the leaves, a tall stalk rises. This stalk will bear many small branches full of small pink or cream-colored flowers. Some varieties of ti develop many red or yellow berries from the flowers.

The Hawaiians considered the plant the sacred symbol of the god Lono and was an emblem of divine power. The green leaves, which are called la’i, were used in rituals of cleansing and rendering free of evil spirits by the kahuna pule heiau, the temple priests, and in rituals of healing by the kahuna lapa’au, the medical experts. Modern-day kahuna, priests, still wear a lei of two ti leaves tied together at the back of the neck, or carry a single leaf, almost as an emblem of their profession or rank.

Women who were menstruating were kept isolated from the rest of the family in a small house called the hale pe’a, which was located in the family’s housing compound. During this period of confinement, they wore lei fashioned from the leaves to protect them from evil influences. If it was necessary for the women to travel during these periods, and especially if they had to cross Pele’s domain, the lei la’i went with them. (It was believed the ti leaves would invoke the protection of the volcano goddess, Pele.)

Ti leaves were also needed for decorating the altar honoring the hula goddess Laka in the halau hula or hula school, and no ceremonial serving of ‘awa was complete without a properly woven base of ti leaves to support the ‘awa bowl.

In keeping with its spiritual symbolism, the ti plant has power over evil. Hawaiians planted ti around their homes and temples to keep bad spirits away and hold good fortune inside. Some people say ti planted to the right of one’s front door wards off evil spirits. The plants also grow untended in the lower forests.
On Molokai, the mountain pool at Halawa was said to be the home of a mo’o, water dragon. Before swimming in the pool, it was advised that one should throw in a ti leaf and see whether it sank or floated. If the leaf sank, it was not a good day to swim. The mo’o was awake.

Ti was grown mostly for its useful shiny green leaves. The leaves were used for wrapping, cooking and storing food. In the imu oven or over hot coals ti leaves insulated food from the hot stones and imparted a unique flavor as the food cooked.

La’i was tied to the upper edge of a hukilau fishing net to frighten fish into staying inside the net. With the hukilau, the fish were herded into a circle where they were caught and pulled up. A tuft of la’i was tied to a luhe’e octopus lure to conceal the sharp bone hook.

Shelters in the forest were often thatched with la’i as were those in the lowland areas where pili grass did not grow. Structures in the heiau temple complex which were sacred to the god Lono were also thatched with la’i.

Temporary sandals were braided from the leaves and worn to protect the feet when crossing rough lava. La’i was tied to fish netting to make rain capes primarily for fowlers who caught birds in the mountain. Originally, the softened leaf stems were used as wefts with the leafy portion forming a thatch on the outer surface of the plaited stems.

Toy canoes could be made from the leaves and in one legend, the king of Kauai used a toy canoe to decide which of his sons to send on a search for their oldest brother. The leaves were used to line the holua sled runs down the steep mountain slopes, helping to make the bumpy run more slippery and providing some cushion for the sled runners.

Ti leaves were also worn around the neck and as wristlets and anklets as decoration and as protective charms.

Sometimes the leaves were also used as temporary wrappings for gift and offerings to the gods. A special lei is still carried in a bag fashioned from ti leaves. In war, a kahuna carried a stalk of ti into battle and sometimes used it as a flag of truce.

Often the la’i were made into whisks to fan the ali’i, chiefs. On ceremonial occasions a stalk of ti was carried to announce the presence of royalty. Over time the stalk evolved into the kahili, a polished wood pole topped with intricate feather-work that resembled the ti stalk. This royal standard accompanied the ali’i and proclaimed a chief’s lineage and rank.

A young leaf, one that was not yet unfolded, was used for bandaging a wound. Lei for the head made from the wetted leaves were used for relief from headaches and fever. (The coolness of the leaf had a therapeutic value, it was said.) For a “dry fever”, one not accompanied by perspiration, the midrib of the leaf was removed and the blades of the leaf tied end-to-end to make a belt. This was tied around the chest or abdomen and repeated as needed to induce sweating and to break the fever. For a backache, a warm stone was wrapped with several leaves and held against some part of the back.
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The swollen roots contain sugar and were baked for a sweet and as a famine food. A mild alcoholic beer could be brewed from the roots and later it was the main ingredient for ‘okolehau, a distilled alcoholic drink popular after Western introduction.

In modern times the plants are used as ornamentals and vast amounts of cuttings are prepared for sale to tourists to take home as houseplants.

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MALIKO, “THE BUDDING”

The deep gulch of Maliko Stream runs from Pu’u Alaea in the Hamakuapoko ahupua’a down to the sea. It stretches from Olinda, past Makawao, and down through Haiku. At its seaward end, the gulch widens into a flat-bottomed valley and ends in a small, narrow bay with steep rocky sides and a small boulder beach at its head. Access to the bay from the Hana Highway is a small dirt road on the Hana side of a bridge that spans the gulch.

The water is usually muddy and dark because of the run-off from the stream. Large rocks sitting on the shallow ocean bottom protrude above the surface of the water and sometimes small surf forms on the rocks. Large waves can create powerful rip tides and a lot of surge at the mouth of the bay and very large surf sometimes completely closes the narrow channel into the bay.

In pre-sugar days when the stream had a continuous flow, there were a number of terraces in the valley. According to E. S. C. Handy, “the gradually rising land of Hamakuapoko in earlier times would have been suitable for dry taro but not for wet. It was probably well-populated and cultivated....” On old land maps, the land east of the gulch was a patchwork of small landholdings, an indication that families worked and lived on this land.

The Haiku sugar plantation, organized by George Douglas in 1858, out-produced all others within four years after it was started. During that time the company built its first mill on the grounds of what is now the Baldwin estate. Cane was ground there and shipped out of Maliko Bay for 23 years.

The most famous story connected with the gulch involved Henry P. Baldwin during the construction of the Hamakua Ditch. In November, 1876, Baldwin organized the Hamakua Ditch Company to carry water by tunnel and ditch from the Nahiku district in East Maui to the dry lowlands of Central Maui for the sugar plantation in Paia that was owned by Baldwin and his partner Samuel T. Alexander. A lot rode on the completion of the irrigation system.

Earlier that year the Reciprocity Treaty signed between the Hawaiian Kingdom and the United States gave Hawaii the advantage of duty-free sugar. Alexander and Baldwin secured a water rights lease from the Hawaiian Kingdom for water rights in East Maui. The ditch had to be completed within two years or all improvements would revert to the government.

The project was the first great irrigation project in Hawaii, and as it progressed, the stakes of the young entrepreneurs’ gamble got higher. California sugar magnate Claus Spreckels secured a lease to water rights below and beyond the Hamakua Ditch from the Hawaiian Kingdom in 1876. One term of this agreement said that if the Hamakua ditch was not completed on time, Spreckels would get the water rights held by Baldwin and Alexander.

Everyone watched with great interest as the Hamakua Ditch Company crews hacked their way through 17 miles of dense, rain-soaked forest. One of the project’s major problems was crossing the deep gulches between Nahiku and Haiku. Pipes had to be run down one side and up the other. The men rappelled down the cliff faces and climbed up the other side as they worked their way towards their goal.

The workers balked when they reached Maliko Gulch, the last and largest obstacle. The extremely high, steep cliffs of the gulch were daunting. Baldwin, who had lost his right arm in an industrial accident in the mill at Paliuli in Paia in 1876, personally went to the site and lowered himself down the cliff to show the men that it could be safely done. Inspired, the workers completed the ditch just before the deadline.

In 1913, the Kahului Railroad Company constructed a steel railroad trestle across Maliko Gulch that extended the line from Paia to Haiku. At 684 feet long and 230 feet high, it was the highest railroad trestle ever constructed in Hawaii. (The Hawaiian Consolidated Railroad on the Big Island had a trestle that was longer, at 1,006 feet, but it was only 193 feet high.) The Maliko trestle was located just below Pu’u O Umi and was used to support the irrigation conduit of the Hamakua Ditch. The huge structure was dismantled and scrapped in the 1960s, but many of the old concrete foundation blocks can still be seen.

The major attraction these days at Maliko Bay is the public boat ramp, constructed in 1976. Located on the east side of the bay, the concrete ramp is well-used; there are few launching facilities on Maui, after all. Both private and commercial fishermen use the boat ramp for Maliko Bay is considered to be one of the best akule and ‘opelu grounds on Maui.

To the rear of the beach is a large coconut grove with several corrals and a riding arena. Known as the Double A Arena, built by Danny and Wilfred Awai, who own the property. Rodeos and related events are regularly held there.

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Standard English: May I see that?.
Braddah-nics: I like see!

Standard English: What do you think about that?
Braddah-nics: So....whatchu figgah?

Standard English: I find it hard to believe you can do that.
Braddah-nics: Try....I like see you try!

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Ingredients:

• 15 green Bluefield or Chinese bananas
• 30 small ti leaves
• 1/4 cup water
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 5 tablespoons Achiote Fat
• 2 Hawaiian red peppers, minced
• 3 3/4 cups Sofrito
• 15 pitted olives

Instructions:

Soak bananas in hot water for 10 minutes. Wash ti leaves; blanch. Peel bananas and soak in cold water for 10 minutes. Cut bananas into 2-inch pieces. Put 4 teaspoons of the water into blender; add one third of the banana pieces and puree. Remove puree and place in bowl. Repeat process until all banana pieces are pureed. Stir salt and 1 tablespoon of the achiote fat into banana mixture. Place two ti leaves side by side and overlap edges lengthwise. With a spoon, spread remaining 4 tablespoons achiote fat on leaves. Spread banana mixture about 1/8 inch thick over fat. Mix peppers into sofrito mixture. Place 1/4 cup of the sofrito mixture in center of banana mixture. Place an olive in the center. Carefully fold the ti leaves lengthwise around filling, using the "drug store" wrap; secure with string. Repeat until all ti leaves are used. Steam for 45 minutes or until done. Makes 15 pasteles.

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HAIKU

Haiku is a scattered community that stretches north from Makawao down the slopes to the Hana Highway. Shades of green predominate, the lushness of the landscape due to the warm rains off the ocean.

One of the problems with driving around Haiku is the lack of landmarks and labeling. Bored kids have a habit of stealing the street signs that are there, leaving you lost at an intersection in the middle of green, wondering which direction you should be heading. It's okay. All roads eventually wend their way to either the Hana Highway or to Makawao...or to a friendly neighbor who'll smile quietly as they tell you where you need to be heading to get to where you want to go.

Because of its location between Makawao and Hookipa, a premier windsurfing spot, much of the area has been settled by surfer dudes, artists, New Age-flavored folks, and others looking for a simpler way of life where once simple farmers and ranchers were in force.

Alexander and Baldwin grew their first 12 acres of sugar cane near Haiku in 1870. The following year they added another 500 acres, the start of Hawaii's largest sugar company. There was a mill there once as well. And, in 1876, Alexander and Baldwin began constructing the Hamakua Ditch bringing water to the Haiku plantations from 17 miles away. It was the site of Henry Baldwin's one-armed feat during the construction of the aqueduct in the 1870s. The ditch was the start of an extensive irrigation system that turned Wailuku's dry plains into green sugar land.

About 30 years later, pineapple became the second major cash-producing crop in Haiku as another pair of Baldwins (Dwight David and Henry Perrine) established the Haiku Fruit and Packing Company, built a can-making plant and cannery, and convinced neighboring ranches and small farms throughout Haiku, Kaupakulua and Makawao to grow the fruit.

Times have changed some. There's not so much pineapple grown in the area any more. Diversified agriculature, with crops such as ornamental plants, papayas, bananas, vegetables, and tropical flowers.

Around the old Haiku cannery buildings, in their latest reincarnation as a center with a variety of shops, stores and eateries, the post office and the old Fukushima Store provide needed services and a bit of local-style neighborliness for the residents of this far-flung area.

Since the 1970s, numerous "gentleman farms" have been built and continue to develop in the agriculture zoning which allows two-acre farm lots. Developments of housing subdivisions along the coastline has resulted in conflicts regarding shoreline access across private lands to reach Kuiaha Bay, a traditional fishing spot in the area.

Once upon a time, the forests to the east of Makawao teemed with native ohia, kou, hau, mamane and koa trees. Maui's first water-powered sawmill was constructed in 1860 at Kaupakalua to mill the koa that was harvested from the forests. A steam-powered successor built in 1880 at Kailili above Kokomo also focused on koa and provided wood for both local and mainland markets.

Nearly 7,000 feet of prime koa from the mill at Kailili was used for the interior woodwork for King Kalakaua's 'Iolani Palace, which was completed in 1882. By the turn of the century, lumber business had proven so profitable that the koa forest was gone.

During World War II, thousands of U.S. Marines were stationed in Haiku. A military outpost known as Camp Maui was established at Kokomo and for several years it served as a training ground and recreational center for the Fourth Marine Division. Many veterans from that era have fond memories of the place and the people who took them in and treated them with kindness and aloha. There is a Memorial Park dedicated to these Marines at Giggle Hill (so-called, it is said, because of all the giggling going on when young man meets pretty girl in secluded place).
 

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